Friday 20 March 2015

Immersed in the Medina

The air is marinaded in the tang of spices, today's catch and  sea spray. There is a dry dustiness to it that would tell age old stories if only we could be still and listen. In the Medina, surrounded by the sturdy embrace of her sandy walls is all of life. To the uninitiated the experience can be one of overwhelming confusion. Brothers compete for the attention of every passer-by, weighting their chances of a sale with a dash of charm and an offer of tea. Jellaba, food, shoes, lamps, fabrics cushions,cloth, leather, jewels, spices, all compete in a storm to assault the senses.  Aromas and rainbow colours, spill onto the street from the tiny caverns, one Aladdin's cave after another, each vendor a diamond in the rough.
Cats seem to be as prolific as people and lie in the road unperturbed by passers by, a population within the population, a hierarchy of their own with the scars to prove it. They are lean and fit, if a little battle-scarred unlike the pampered pets of home with their sleek groomed coats and full bellies but the superior confidence and king-of-the-hill swagger is universal.
Accept the welcome gift of Royal Tea as you are treated (like royalty) to the ultimate home brew. It seems anything goes into this house special blend. Along with the tea leaves,from the myriad jars on display, rose, mint, bay, cinnamon juniper berries and even pepper are thrown into the pot to infuse their flavours in the hot water in an alchemy of brewing. The theatre does not stop their as sugar syrup is added to a glass and the brew is poured only to put the whole mixture back in the teapot. Beautiful etched or coloured glasses are brought out from the depths of the Aladdins cave and the tea, now steeped, is poured from a great height into the glasses, not losing an opportunity to blend further spices from the air. This is the ultimate gesture of hospitality and is undertaken with great generosity of spirit. A rare treasure. Unhurried conversation flows. To the cynical of mind it could appear to be a ruse, part of the sale, but this is not a business transaction, it is simply one of human kindness.
A sky full of seagulls wheel about  on the unseen turbulence above, their mocking laughter shouted into the wind. It is time to find an oasis of calm.

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